Do you have a toilet that is constantly cycling (filling with water), but you are not flushing it. I made a quick video just for this purpose…Here are the two ‘main’ problems toilets have when they get older (even some newer).
1. The float is mis-adjusted and the water is just allowed to run down the overflow piping – this is an easy fix, just adjust the float rod with the finger fastener or adjust it with a screw (most old toilets have this type).

2. The flapper that holds the water in the toilet tank has lost its flexibility and just lets the water pass by it. Another easy fix, just replace the flapper with one purchased at the hardware store. hint** Turn off the water on the toilet and flush it…then remove the flapper and take it to the hardware store with you. This step will help you insure that you will not purchase the wrong one.

- There are other issues with toilets that will waste water or cause the toilet not to function, these two are the most common…If your issue cannot be fixed by checking these two things then you probably need a new float assembly. This is easy to install and I will follow up with a video on that subject soon.

***note the secondary float on the flapper is supposed to be adjusted the other way…I noticed my blooper after the fact:). If you want more water on your flush adjust the secondary float down towards the flapper, less water – move it towards the lid of the toilet.

Thank you for reading and watching,
Luke

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Installing the correct threshold seal for your door is not very difficult. In recent years door companies have innovated many different sweeps, thresholds, and seals. Your goal is to stop the draft. First, if you have a strong draft leaking under your door and you would like to stop it immediately just use a rolled up towel until you have time to choose a new method of sealing the leak.
Here is an easy way to choose your threshold. If you have a door that already scrapes on your carpet and has no seal on the bottom, Pick a threshold with the seal on the threshold (see picture). This way you will not be dropping the bottom of the door, ruffing the carpet even more.
If your door has plenty of room between the bottom of the door and the flooring, consider a seal that mounts on the bottom of the door. With this configuration you will most likely have a threshold without a seal (oak, aluminum, or both – see example pics).
You can also use a door sweep. This is a piece of rubber clad with aluminum that attaches on either the outside or inside of the door. Some use this as their primary defense against leaks, but I prefer to use it as a back-up to the two I just mentioned. To install these Items is fairly easy. You will need a hack saw for the aluminum items, and a jig saw for the oak (this is the easiest saw to use, you can use coping saws and trim saws for this work…I use a large tooth metal cutting blade when I am cutting oak thresholds). Remember you will most likely have to notch the threshold to mount it on the floor. **You want the highest part of the threshold centered under the door when it is closed and dead bolted, this is to insure proper seal. Measure and place the threshold on the floor where you will be mounting it to insure proper orientation. Mark and cut the threshold to size and put in place. If you are putting this on concrete you will need to get lead anchors from the store when you pick up the threshold. Mark for your screws with a 16d nail or something that will reach the floor through the threshold. Pre-drill holes for the screws that will anchor the threshold, drilling larger holes for concrete anchors if necessary. Put a bead of silicon sealant under the threshold if it does not already have its own rubber seal for the floor on it. Install the threshold. For the door, just measure the bottom of the door for the seal you selected, and cut the seal to length. Remember to pre-drill your holes. After installing the door seal (if applicable) make sure to double check your work and adjust the seal as necessary.
If you still want to install a sweep on your door, just measure the door and make sure the sweep will hit the threshold and not interfere with anything on the floor. Installing is simple for this also just measure and cut. I like to leave a little extra rubber on each end for an extra seal (not always necessary)…
Thank you for reading … if you have anything to add, please feel free to comment

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Drafty windows can cause your electric bill to jump dramatically during the winter. If you have an older heater it is likely to cost you even more. Older heaters sometimes are just run on heater coils with a forced air fan (now called emergency heat). A strong draft in the house can make your bill jump as much as 15 – 35%. Heat pumps and gas heat is a little more efficient, but you will still lose money letting your warm air slip out your leaky windows.
I found this Dap Seal n’ Peal caulking about two years ago at my local building store and tried it out. It seals the draft for the winter and you can peal it off whenever you feel necessary. To apply it, you need to clean the area of the window you will be caulking with a damp rag (use windex if the area is especially dirty). Let the area dry. Cut the caulking tube just enough to cover the crack and puncture the seal. Get another wet rag ready to clean up any excess caulking. Apply the caulking on the window, and smooth with your finger (lightly wet your finger with the clean up rag). Allow the caulking to dry and test to see if the window is still drafty.
Another thing to do along with fixing the drafty windows is sealing your drafty doors. I will talk about door on my next post.
Luke

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