Nails, Hammer, and Wood – Sometimes you are short on tools and supplies when you are repairing your house. Knowing nail tricks is important when you lack the things to make your job easier (mainly nail guns). Here are a few things that I hope will help you on that new job…

1) Don’t choke your hammer! – holding your hammer in the middle causes you to hit with a stiff wrist drastically reducing your power and increasing the likelihood of a smashed finger. Fix this by using your hammer’s handle, it may seem difficult at first but once you learn it will feel very awkward to do it any other way.

2) Don’t put a nail in the corner or the end of a board – This may not be possible for certain situations, but you should avoid nailing close to the end of a board whenever possible. If you must nail in a corner, center the nail (or pre-drill if possible).

3) Blunt your nails when nailing into hardwood – Take the head of the nail and place it on a hard surface, tap the point of the nail until it slightly flattens. This will make the nail into a punch instead of a wedge that splits the wood. (again pre-drill whenever possible – use a bit that is half the width of the nail).

4) Use a quick clamp to nail loose boards together – Using a quick clamp helps you to increase your accuracy and reduces the likelihood that you will be doing to much with your nail holding hand.

5) If you lose your punch…try a nail – A 16d framing nail will work as a punch for small trim nails. If you choose to do this make sure you are using your safety glasses, this can occasionally make small pieces of nail fly.

More about nails:
– Easy trim Nailing
– What’s a Penny?

If you have any nail tricks feel free to add them in the comments section…thank you for reading.

Luke

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Just give that drawer a good yank, the thought is very harmless until all of your cooking utensils are on your foot. If you have an older house it is very likely that you have some sticking drawers. There are many types of drawers therefore many different ways to fix them. Fixing your drawers is a simple and usually quick project that will save you hours of cleaning up or worse yet emergency room time.

Object blocking your drawer or jambing your track

First, thing to do when you are fixing your drawers is to make sure that your they are not sticking because of some sort of trash getting inside the track or blocking its proper operation. This situation happens most of the time to my drawers…I put a utensil or other cooking item in the drawer that is too big and jambs proper operation, or a recipe on a 3×5 card falls into the drawer track and gets the wheel messed up.

Broken Tracks, Corroded Track Wheels, Missing Wheels

Second, check to make sure that the wheels on the drawer tracks are operating correctly. Sometimes the track wheels will lose their bearings or get gunked up from many years of continuous use. If this is the case with your drawers attempt to put a little oil (3 in 1) on the wheels to see if they free up for you. If the wheels will not free up, replace the tracks (the tracks are usually found at Lowe’s or home depot in the hardware dept.) Take the old drawer tracks off and bring them with you when you go to purchase the new ones. Ask an associate to get a close match to your hardware.

Drawer is Falling Apart, Drawer is Swollen

Third, if the drawer is falling apart or swelling (from moisture) you will have to do a little more mending. If the sides are falling off the front of the drawer, or back falling off the sides, you will need to find a way to reassemble it. The best way to do this is to squirt a little glue in the damaged joint then screw it together with small trim screws (pre-drill the sides with 1/16″ to prevent splitting). If the drawer is swollen from moisture, the wood must be dried before it will operate. – Place a 60W lamp in front of the drawer for about 8 hours to dry the it out (this will need to be monitored so that you do not start anything on fire). Carefully open the drawer (because it is hot), and let the drawer stand out for about 30 min. – sand with a orbital sander then wax.

Old Stuck Drawers, Wood On Wood Drawer Slides

If you drawers are sticking and you do not have tracks or wheels then you probably have wood sticking on wood. These drawers are in many old houses that were up fitted with custom kitchen cabinets. The best way to fix these old drawers is to pull one out and examine the colors on the sides and bottom, if you see any black streaks it usually means that the wood is rubbing in that area. Sand down the dark area with 100 grit sandpaper, then with 120 or lighter to smooth the surface. Clean all the sawdust off the affected area and rub some gulf (paraffin) wax all over the affected area. Put the drawer back in place, and check for operation. If it works good you are finished, if not go through the steps again. ** Occasionally the drawer will rub over the whole side surface, If this is the case then sand the whole area with an orbital sander, then clean and wax.

Hope this information helps you out

Luke Spencer

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Ever been out shopping for a item for your bathroom and thought “Holey moley that’s expensive!” This was our problem when we were building our master bath on the house. We were able to find all kinds of things at the Habitat for Humanity Restore, but bathroom vanities where not one of those things we could find for cheap. I found a Jacuzzi tub for $50 and decided to build a bead board surround, and ended up purchasing too much bead board and framing materials. This oops ended up working out quite nicely because the vanities I was looking to install in the bathroom where around $900 a pop (this was the cheap one).

Purchasing the vanity at this point would have limited other projects I was trying to finish around the house so I decided that I would wing it and make one from scratch. I decided on a look that I liked, something to match the jacuzzi surround, and found some hardware that was similar to the hardware on the vanities that were in the store. In addition to the hardware, I decided to spice it up a notch with some fluted trim and rosettes (got the idea from another vanity).
– The drawer slides can be purchased at a building superstore in your area…the easiest way to find them if you do not know what they are is to ask a hardware specialist to show you the drawer slides they carry that are similar to the ones in the cabinets sold in the store (the best to install are the ones that mount on the bottom of the drawer).
– The strongest and easiest way to assemble the face of the cabinet is to use a pocket screw jig from the hardware store. I use a small two screw unit that works well and is efficient for just about any job like it around your house. -> Kreg R3 Jr. Pocket Hole Jig System This is a jig like the one I use, I purchased one a Lowe’s but If you cannot find one there please feel free to use this Amazon link.
– For the cabinet doors I used European hinges because they are very easy to adjust once they are installed. There is a bit usually in the area of these hinges that is made for their installation, it is called a forstner bit and is usually 35mm (1 3/8″). This hardware along with the knobs where purchased at the habitat store for $5.

In all I saved around $800 dollars on just the vanity….this is not to mention the Corean double bowl sink that we purchased for very little money, and the large mirror over the sink that was also purchased at a good price.

I would like to include plans for this vanity, but like many things I have done around the house it was kind of an improv. project. If you would like to build something like this in your house I would recommend getting a good book on carpentry (there are many). Here is one good book on building cabinets -> Illustrated Cabinetmaking: How to Design and Construct Furniture That Works
its very good, many pictures and diagrams so you can tell what you are doing.

Hope this information helps, thank you for reading.
Luke Spencer

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I saw a headboard in a Lowe’s sales magazine about five years ago and decided that it would look good in my child’s room. It was a made from picket fence sold right there in lowe’s (of course it was an add). It was fairly simple to build and finish, so here is what you are going to need. First you want to pick out the type of picket that you would like on the back of the head board (Gothic, dog ear, flat etc.) Then you are going to need 2 – 1×4s that are the length of the bed you will be putting the headboard on. The screws that you will use to fasten the pickets to the 1×4s need to be 1 1/4″ galvanized (pickets are usually Yellow wood) because you want a length that is not too long to go through the pickets and not too short so the pickets fall off.

-Measure your universal bed frame and make your two outside pickets this far apart. Attach the outside pickets to the 1×4s (cut to the width of the frame also). Take the remaining pickets and space them out evenly attach these pickets also (attach all of your pickets from behind so you wont see the screws on your finished headboard.

- Finish the headboard with 2 coats of primer, then as much paint that is necessarily to get your desired finish..

- Attach the Headboard with 4 – 1 1/2 inch bolts trough the outside pickets into the bedframe – be sure to use washers on the wood and frame side of the bolt to prevent the bolt from pulling through.

Similar Post –
Make A Headboard Out of an Old Door

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Are you planning on a particularly loud room in your house, like a band room or maybe you would like a quiet room for a baby. If you have plans to dampen sound in your house here is how you do it (mostly sound proof, you would still hear dynamite or the drummer for Metallica:).

First thing you are going to want to do is find some sound proofing drywall, this is usually sold at drywall specialty stores. If you live in a small town you may have to visit a nearby city to find this stuff….The other supplies are very easy to find.

The wall is built with 2×6’s for the sole plate and top plate (sole plate ‘bottom’, top plate ‘top’). Place the 2×6’s were you want the wall to be – make sure you make everything square and equidistant from other walls. Use 2×4’s as the wall studs placing them 8 inches and alternating from one side to the other (this will make the 2×4’s 16″ on center on each side of the wall). Weave un-faced fiberglass insulation between the studs horizontally instead of vertically (use R13 insulation or less). Cover the wall with Sound Proof drywall on both sides (one side is ok, both is better depending on the money you have to spend on the project). Then place 1/2″ regular sheetrock on both sides of the wall making sure that you use a different pattern then what you used installing the sound proof wall board (off set the drywall by one stud or start on the other side).

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Have you ever wanted to make faux (fake in French) beams in house for a country or rustic appearance. Many old houses have some form of artificial beams and you can easily do this in your house with a few little tricks. First thing you want to do is to find the existing framing that is in your house, this is what your beam will be attached to. The easiest way to find framing in a wall of course is a stud finder, you can find one of these in your local hardware store. Mark your framing and determine the best spacing for your beams (most framing is either 16″ or 24″ spaced on center). Remember you do not have to use all the framing, just the ones to make your spacing right. There are several different configurations for wood beams, I illustrated the most simple and popular design, See Drawing.

On this drawing, I attached a 2×4 to the existing wall into the existing framing. You want to make sure you hit framing because the beam can be heavy and will eventually pull out a drywall anchor. After the 2×4 is up and in place, you can attach wood to simulate a wooden beam. In the drawing I suggested 1x material but you can use whatever suits your fancy. Most beams that are built in this fashion are built of rough cut cedar and stained to the owners liking. This of course can be made smaller or larger just use the size lumber that you feel are appropriate for your house.

Luke

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Cupped boards, popped nails, rusted screws, just a few of the things you would like to avoid when building a deck. I have worked on many decks and though many uh..ohs and oopss I have learned a few tricks along the way (book knowledge does not hurt).

- Remember when you are laying your deck boards, that the crown of the board goes down…or as deck builders say crown down – see drawing. This will make the boards eventually bow down, which is good, if they bow up they will hold water.

- If at all possible, use stainless deck screws. Nails and Galvanized screws eventually have problems, stainless may be expensive to start but will outlast anything else you can put on your deck.

- Try to pick up strait wood from the building supply store. This is obvious, but if you get in a hurry at the store, you will be slowing down when you are trying to straiten your deck boards on the job site.

- Use a water repellent stain to protect your deck. This can be purchased at a hardware store and greatly increases the life of your deck.

- Counter sink all of your screws with a counter sink drill bit. This not only makes your deck look nicer, but also protects the boards from splitting during installation.

- Straiten the edges of your deck with a strait edge guided skill saw. This gives a nice professional look.

More on deck building later….if you have any hints or tips you would like to add, please feel free.
Luke

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One common problem with doors is loose hinge screws…Screws that have over time torn up the wood that originally held them in place. If your door snags on the latch side it is common to find several loose screws on the hinge side. If you have this problem, this is what you can do. Remove the screws from the wood. Remove the hinge from the mortise (or any other item reset in the wood). Get a small dowel approximately the size of the screw hole, just a little larger is better. Fill the hole with glue and cover the dowel with glue. Hammer the dowel into the hole. Cut off the excess dowel with a small pull saw, or crosscut saw. If you do not have a dowel, find some match sticks or BBQ skewer sticks (hammer as many will fit in the hole…don’t forget the glue). Wait for the glue to dry if at all possible…use 5 min epoxy if you need a really quick fix. When everything is dry, cut off any extra dowel that may have been missed in the first pass. The reinsert the hinge into the mortise. Use a 1/16″ drill bit to start a small hole in the dowel, then reinsert the screw.

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Do you have a door that sticks on the top or bottom and you would like to fix the swing without leaving uneven cut marks. This can be a difficult task when the door only catches on one side, because you will end up with a cut that goes from 1/8 – 1/2″ to nothing. You can use a plane, but the door will end up like hamburger if you don’t know what you are doing. There is a much easier way to accomplish this task. Here is what you need. A circular saw, two quick clamps, tape measure, a strait edge (I use a especially straight 1×4). First measure how much you will need to cut off the door while it is on the hinges. Try to make the the clearance from the door or jamb equal all the way across the door. Do this by adding the clear section (the area of the door that does not stick) of the trim to the amount of material is actually sticking to the jamb or door. Usually a door clears the jamb by 3/16 – 1/16″, if the jamb sticks over the full perimeter of the door start with 1/8″ or less clearance. When you know how much material you need to remove from the door write it down on a piece of paper. Measure the wide side of the circular saw’s base with a tape measure (see picture). The wide side of most circular saw bases is usually around 5″, make this measurement within a 1/16″. Add this number to the amount to be removed from the door. Mark the door with this number on the side where the material is to be removed. Then mark the other side either with just the base measurement (if it is an angled cut going to zero), or with the same number if you are making a strait cut. Put the strait edge on the marks you just made on the door, then clamp it in place with the clamps (use tight clamps and protect the door with a thin piece of wood or cardboard). With the saw not plugged in check the location of the strait edge. It will be used to guide your saw. Lift the guard on the saw and butt the base against the strait edge. The blade should be taking off approximately what your original estimate was. **WEAR saftey glasses for this task*** Plug in the saw and slowly make your cut, you may have to manually pull up your guard depending on your saw. If you have to pull up your guard to so very cautiously, this is a good way to cut yourself if you are not careful.

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I was in the Habitat for Humanity ReStore a while back and saw an old 7ft oak door for sale and thought “I could make something out of that”. I purchased the door for $10, they had a door special that day. I ended up deciding to make a head board for my bead out of it…it was a very nice door. It was unfinished and very dirty. I think whoever had it last must have kept it in some warehouse collecting dust. If you find an old door and would like do the same, here’s how to do it. First you are going to want to find a door that will look nice when it is cut to the size of the bed. The door that I used needed some carpentry magic but not too much…If you have a little carpentry skills and creativity you can do the same. I had to cross cut the door through the fourth panel. I pulled out the trim and thin piece of wood that made the panel and replaced it with a ripped piece of the scrap I just made from shortening the door. Each door will be different so be creative with yours. If you will be painting or varnishing it, you will need to sand it. Follow the rules on the tack cloth page to get a nice finish on your headboard. You will then need an 8′ 1×8 to attach the head board to the bed. The 1×8 board will need to be attached to the back of the headboard on the left and right side aligning with the bed frame headboard attachment bracket (see picture).
Attach the board with 4 – 6 1-1/2″ screws, pre-drilling each hole to prevent splitting. make sure the 1×8 is completely hidden behind the head board and stained or painted the same color. Attach the headboard to the bed frame with 4 1/4″ bolts. Run the bolts through the 1×8s and make sure to put washers on both sides with lock washers and nuts on the bracket side. Be creative and enjoy.

Luke

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