Number three is on the way!! Here we go again, excitement, worry, no sleep the whole shibang. The first question is how are we getting our house ready for the new arrival. A new baby will bring many challenges to the average family – good challenges. The first for our three bedroom house was where to put the little guy. We could just go but a new house right…um…not really.

So what is the plan here? About three months ago we decided to get bunk beds for our other two children from a great furniture shop out in the woods. This has taken a little adjustment for the kids, but I think that I prefer their arrangement now because it has fostered a better relationship between the two of them. I would recommend bunk beds for any family for at least a little while.

Second thing changed in the house is the sudden influx of baby paraphernalia – swing, changing table, crib, baby toys, bassinets, etc. If you are purchasing this stuff for a third child I would recommend finding it at a baby resale store. We have several in our area they are called Once Upon A Child…they are great! The stuff that they carry is usually at least 50% off and it really is gently used (sometimes not used at all). Of course the easiest way to save money is just to save the stuff from the other children. We have done this to some extent but we have given some stuff away. Also, our children are spaced out a little more than most so we did end up having to pick up more stuff.

Lastly, if you have a house that is not child safe it is good to start thinking about what you can do to make it safer. Think about easily reachable glass items like pictures, vases, table lamps, ect…If your house is heavy laden with decorations it is a good idea to cut back a little until the child is older. Your decorations will take a beating if choose to leave them out, and they can be very dangerous to young hands and skin. Do you have any poisonous plants in your house? Its good to make sure you do not have any plants that may be poisonous in some way. Plants like glass will take a beating if you choose to leave them out, if the plant is not poisonous and you don’t mind missing leaves then go ahead and leave them out. – Make sure to put dangerous household cleaners out of reach. This is probably the first thing that you thought about. Cleaners and Medicine are extremely dangerous to children and should be either too high to reach or behind a locked cabinet door (child lock). It is good to keep poison control numbers handy – click here for a link to their site.
- I also recommend going to Lowe’s or Home Depot and looking at their child safety section, they have outlet covers, cabinet locks, child fences, etc. This area will help you determine what other things you may need to secure before the baby is moving around (this happens sooner than you think). This task can usually wait a couple of months but don’t wait too long because you will not have as much time after the baby is born…

I hope this helps some of you guys out…Thank you for reading

Luke

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One of the most irritating things that can happen to something you have painted is to have that paint peel off. Most people find painting monotonous and messy, with that in mind it is best to work in a way that you won’t have to do the job twice. This post is going to cover prepping glossy paint so that the top layer will not peel (or be much less likely).
There are three ways that I ‘de-gloss’ glossy paint…there are more ways but these work good for me.

– Use a Deglossing primer in coordination with a good cleaning. I use Valspar Deglosser (Lowe’s) to do this job, it has the best performance in my experience. This paint works for glossy trim, tile, varnish, etc… I do my prep cleaning with a lightly wet, soapy sponge and paper towels.

– Use sand paper and tack cloth to degloss. Take 220 sand paper and remove just the glossy part of the paint (it will become dull) then clean up the remnants with tack cloth. I usually follow up with a regular primer to ensure an even paint finish. **If you have ridges, beads or other areas that you cannot get to with sand paper use a brass wire brush.

– If you have a large area to de-gloss (like a whole room, house full of trim, etc) use a chemical de-glosser. This de-glosser needs to be used with safety in mind. It’s fumes are dangerous and it is very caustic to your skin…If you choose to use this method wear nitrile gloves, and a chemical respirator approved for the chemicals in the de-glosser you have chosen. I usually follow up this treatment with a regular oil primer. If you do not want to take the chance with the chemical treatment, just use the de-glossing primer (I use the combination of de-glossing and priming only because it gives me a little more guarantee that the last coat will stick – I have not yet run into a problem with the de-glossing primer).

Thank you for reading
Luke

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I am one of those people that just cannot make friends with the bugs in my house. I run into many people in our area that have the same feelings but are at times unable to evict their unwanted host. If you are in this group, the first thing you need to think is -> how are they getting in? Bugs are very sneaky, they get in from just about any size crack, hole, opening, etc. The job of this post is to get your brain working on how you can fix your particular problem.

First, try to determine where they are coming from:

• Are there places is your house’s integrity that are compromised to the point that bugs are getting in - doesn’t take much
• Do you have piles of stuff laying around in your house that do not get moved around much or areas of your house that are not visited often.
• Do you live in an apartment or condo that has a communal attic space or other area that is used by other people.

Bad house integrity is a good way to invite unwanted visitors.  If you have this problem, sealing your house is your solution.  Look for areas around baseboards and trim where a bug could fit under or over (very typical problem for an old house) -> fix these problems with appropriate colored painters caulking.

Repair bad doors and windows with caulking and seals from the hardware store. The doors on a house are notorious for letting in larger bugs like cockroaches and noisy little crickets. Windows usually don’t let too many bugs in unless you are leaving them open – don’t leave your windows open unless you have screens. Remember that if you are caulking your windows, you will be unable to open them during a fire if you use the wrong caulking…I recommend using removable caulk.

If you have large gaps in your wall trim on the exterior or interior of your house, consider using a wood trim to repair it…I usually use either 1/4 inch wood battons or quarter round. This job of course takes some carpentry knowledge but is still fairly easy. **remember you are not limited to your trim use, try to match the look of your house it is supposed to look like it belongs there.

Electrical outlets can also let bugs in. Repair this by either stuffing fiberglass insulation around the box (where the box meets the Sheetrock with the faceplate off – Turn the affected breakers off), or purchasing bug insulators made to fit behind the outlet face plates.

If you have a messy house…Get as much stuff as you can off the floor and vacuum. Then of course clean up and put everything where it belongs, this will eliminate the bug’s house.

Lastly, if you live in a condo or apartment with a communal attic space you can sometimes make a faux wall in the attic with 3/4 inch blue foam purchased from the hardware store. Seal the joints in the insulation with packaging tape and seal around the perimeter with spray foam (if you do not own it you will have to get your landlords approval). If you are sure you are getting bugs from your neighbors apartment it is good to seal everything on the wall that connects your appt. to their appt.

This post is about blocking bugs from getting in…I also believe in spraying, fumigating and baiting for insects but this will be for a later post. If any of you guys has any more tips for keeping bugs out mechanically, please leave a comment.

Thank you for reading,
Luke

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It seems that the theme here in Charleston, South Carolina is when it rains it pours – every day. We have been a little soggy to say the least. The flat roof on the back of our house has been a pain, but leaking seemed to leave my thoughts as we had a very heavy snow last night. I was only thinking of our roof falling in on us while we were sleeping. This is not the most snow we have ever had but it certainly was accumulating faster than any snowstorm I have seen since living here.

This snowstorm started while I was at work and of course everyone there was skeptical as to whether anything was going to stick to the ground. We get snowfall here, but it only sticks once every five years or so. I left my place of employment around 10Pm only to find my car under 2 inches of snow, and it was still coming down at 1-2 inches an hour. I dug out the the keyhole and handle on my car and worked my way in. I sat in the seat, put my lunch box and back pack away, and turned the key to start my car. – Click, Click, Click…Click, Click, Click, (the car had a dead battery) – I have to be honest, I don’t really cuss too much, but at this moment I cannot promise that I had a pure heart or mouth for that matter. After a few phone calls and much fussing (at myself) someone came and gave my car a jump.

We woke up in the morning to several inches of snow on the ground and a fallen oak tree (from the weight of the snow). To my surprise the roof on the house did not even leak (the snow was very wet), or fall in thankfully. Now What does all of this have to do with building you ask?…Well I built the first snowman made by my hands since I lived in Colorado – Just for you guys that don’t know, that is a loooooong time.

I often forget how beautiful snow is, it was great to have just a little day and a half glimpse of what South Carolina would look like if it were farther north. All that being said, it is also a blessing to not have so much snow that you have to shovel it all the time:).

Thank You for reading,
Luke Spencer

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The home inspector added several outlets to the ‘punch’ list when you where buying your house and it says something about a GFCI. What is it and why does it need to be on your report?

- GFCI – Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter

This is a typical problem as building codes change for different regions of the US. I see this on almost every older house sale that I help punch out…The problem usually stems from not adding every bathroom or kitchen outlet to the existing GFCI or not having them added at all. The current law requires that every outlet within 3ft of a water source (sink) and every outlet located outdoors be GFCI protected (this is the last time I looked).

What exactly does a GFCI do? A GFCI is a little genius invention that detects the presence of water and trips the circuit. It works by comparing the current out with the current in and trips when the differ. When water is added to the circuit the current is allowed to stray a little which causes the electricity to be suddenly interrupted. If you are holding a blow dryer and somehow come in contact with water you may get a little shock, but the GFCI is designed to stop the electricity quickly so that you are not electrocuted.

- Tip – Check your GFCIs periodically to ensure they are working properly. This includes all outlets attached to the GFCI load end (protected). Push the test button and make sure there is no electricity coming from them with a non-contact voltage tester.

Thank You For Reading
Luke Spencer

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Wow!…that’s a long title. I remember working as a carpenter in my younger years and breaking off the third prong on my extension cords to fit two prong plugs. It never shocked me so I thought why even add a third prong to power cords. – This post is for all you ‘lucky’ construction workers that have worked with metal tools and not been lit up at least one time (with electricity).

The third prong was added to electrical outlets and cords around the 70’s and 80’s for safety reasons. Grounding provides a quick path for stray electricity to go in the case of a Hot wire short to the chassis, frame, or any other conducting part of an electrical item. Electricity follows the path of least resistance, for example: A human is usually 10000 ohms of resistance, a copper ground line is going to be around 0 – 5 ohms. The low resistance of the copper is going to provide a way for the electricity to run back to the grounding strip (instead of through the person) therefore causing high amps and tripping the breaker.
– - Here’s some math from ohms law – I = V/R (Current = Voltage/Resistance), 120V/3ohms = 40amps – A normal breaker for 120V is 20Amps or less so you can see the breaker would interrupt the electrical flow very quickly.
If you decided to break the third prong off your extension cord and the hot wire touches the frame of the tool you are using you are very likely to get a shock. You will not only get a shock, but the breaker will not trip so you will continue to get shocked.
There are adapters for converting a 3 prong plug into a 2 prong plug. They are made to be used in coordination with an earth ground (like plumbing). If you choose to use one of these just remember that if you do not ground it, it is just like using no ground.
- Another thing to add to this is the third prong not only protects you but is also a safety device for your equipment (electronics, wiring, etc).

Thank you for reading!!

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One of the least fun parts of plumbing is cleaning out that nasty little thing called a p-trap under your sink.   It seams that is holds every nasty thing you could possibly put in your sink, then it ferments for several years…Nasty!

What exactly is this piece of pluming for?  Why is it called a ‘P’ Trap? Why would you put a piece of plumbing in that plugs up so easy?

- A P-trap and an S-trap are made to stop gas (mainly methane) from coming back into your house.  If you are wondering what methane can do watch “Christmas Vacation” with Chevy Chase.  His brother in law dumps his camper’s sewer into the storm drain, releasing ignitable gas, then blows himself up – funny movie but good example of why you should use a p-trap.   This gas is not only flammable but it also carries quite a bad odor…knowing where it came from should help you realize this:).

- The ‘P’ in p-trap actually comes from its shape.  Look at the side profile and imagine a p and there it is (without the back, but still a p).  The side profile of an ‘S’ trap is of course you guessed it – an S.

- This thing plugs up fast because it holds water, oil, soap, shaving cream, food and whatever else you can put in it (if it is rised out well most stuff will just go down the drain)…The nature of the thing holding water is actually the reason it can block air.   Water holds a level under the lowest level of the wall drain, water is actually trapped by gravity making an air tight seal in the plumbing (this is difficult to visualize without a drawing, see below.)

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Do you have a toilet that is constantly cycling (filling with water), but you are not flushing it. I made a quick video just for this purpose…Here are the two ‘main’ problems toilets have when they get older (even some newer).
1. The float is mis-adjusted and the water is just allowed to run down the overflow piping – this is an easy fix, just adjust the float rod with the finger fastener or adjust it with a screw (most old toilets have this type).

2. The flapper that holds the water in the toilet tank has lost its flexibility and just lets the water pass by it. Another easy fix, just replace the flapper with one purchased at the hardware store. hint** Turn off the water on the toilet and flush it…then remove the flapper and take it to the hardware store with you. This step will help you insure that you will not purchase the wrong one.

- There are other issues with toilets that will waste water or cause the toilet not to function, these two are the most common…If your issue cannot be fixed by checking these two things then you probably need a new float assembly. This is easy to install and I will follow up with a video on that subject soon.

***note the secondary float on the flapper is supposed to be adjusted the other way…I noticed my blooper after the fact:). If you want more water on your flush adjust the secondary float down towards the flapper, less water – move it towards the lid of the toilet.

Thank you for reading and watching,
Luke

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Duct Tape, extremely useful for many temporary fixes around the house and garage, has a special place in my toolbox. I use it for many items from patching my surfboard to pulling out splinters. Here are some hints using this great stuff…I hope it helps you out, please feel free to add your uses in the comments. Also, as most of you know, duct tape comes in all kinds of colors, use appropriate colors with the repair you are working on.

- Pulling out splinters, cactus spurs, porcupine quils, bee stingers, etc..

- Holding a picture level, by reducing slippage.

- Removing Warts, in conjunction with salitic acid.

- Replace shipping tape for heavy items that may get out of the box.

- Temporarily repair an air mattress or air toy.

- Repair a book binding and cover.

- Repair a shower curtain with the same color tape.

- Temporary vacuum system repair. Duct tape works well on vacuum, but not so well on internal pressure leaking out.

- Depth gauge on a drill bit

- Protect glass from shattering

- Protect laminate counter top from chipping while it is being cut with a saw.

Please add to this list…as you can see it is very short for a tape like duct tape.

Luke Spencer

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Is your hot water heater system (hydronic) not working well or are some of your rooms cold and some hot? Some do not know that many hot water heating systems need to have the air bled off them at least once a year (usually done right before it starts getting cold). Air naturally works its way into the system through small leaks in the system and needs to be removed. Each radiator has a small bleed valve that usually can be opened with a special wrench or a flat bladed screwdriver (sometimes a special tool). When bleeding the system here is the general steps that need to be taken to get the air out of your system.
– First of all remember the water coming out of the system when it is running is generally either very hot or in steam form. Protect yourself with a pair of leather gloves and bleed the water off into a coffee cup with a handle.
- Start up the system just like you normally would during the winter, make sure the thermostat is set high enough to keep the water running for an hour.
- Bleed the air off the first radiator after the pump…this radiator generally doesn’t have much air in it, if it does expect the rest of the radiators to be worse off.
- Open the valves as little as possible, you will hear the air hissing out of the valve. Eventually you will get a little steam, then steam and water. When you get steam and water you will know that you are done, and can close the valve.
- Remember if you feel a radiator and it is cold to touch on the top, it most likely needs to have the air bled off of it (when the heater is on).

If you have more heater bleeding tips please feel free to comment.
Thank you for reading,
Luke Spencer

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