I am one of those people that just cannot make friends with the bugs in my house. I run into many people in our area that have the same feelings but are at times unable to evict their unwanted host. If you are in this group, the first thing you need to think is -> how are they getting in? Bugs are very sneaky, they get in from just about any size crack, hole, opening, etc. The job of this post is to get your brain working on how you can fix your particular problem.

First, try to determine where they are coming from:

• Are there places is your house’s integrity that are compromised to the point that bugs are getting in - doesn’t take much
• Do you have piles of stuff laying around in your house that do not get moved around much or areas of your house that are not visited often.
• Do you live in an apartment or condo that has a communal attic space or other area that is used by other people.

Bad house integrity is a good way to invite unwanted visitors.  If you have this problem, sealing your house is your solution.  Look for areas around baseboards and trim where a bug could fit under or over (very typical problem for an old house) -> fix these problems with appropriate colored painters caulking.

Repair bad doors and windows with caulking and seals from the hardware store. The doors on a house are notorious for letting in larger bugs like cockroaches and noisy little crickets. Windows usually don’t let too many bugs in unless you are leaving them open – don’t leave your windows open unless you have screens. Remember that if you are caulking your windows, you will be unable to open them during a fire if you use the wrong caulking…I recommend using removable caulk.

If you have large gaps in your wall trim on the exterior or interior of your house, consider using a wood trim to repair it…I usually use either 1/4 inch wood battons or quarter round. This job of course takes some carpentry knowledge but is still fairly easy. **remember you are not limited to your trim use, try to match the look of your house it is supposed to look like it belongs there.

Electrical outlets can also let bugs in. Repair this by either stuffing fiberglass insulation around the box (where the box meets the Sheetrock with the faceplate off – Turn the affected breakers off), or purchasing bug insulators made to fit behind the outlet face plates.

If you have a messy house…Get as much stuff as you can off the floor and vacuum. Then of course clean up and put everything where it belongs, this will eliminate the bug’s house.

Lastly, if you live in a condo or apartment with a communal attic space you can sometimes make a faux wall in the attic with 3/4 inch blue foam purchased from the hardware store. Seal the joints in the insulation with packaging tape and seal around the perimeter with spray foam (if you do not own it you will have to get your landlords approval). If you are sure you are getting bugs from your neighbors apartment it is good to seal everything on the wall that connects your appt. to their appt.

This post is about blocking bugs from getting in…I also believe in spraying, fumigating and baiting for insects but this will be for a later post. If any of you guys has any more tips for keeping bugs out mechanically, please leave a comment.

Thank you for reading,
Luke

Share on Facebook

Do you have a toilet that is constantly cycling (filling with water), but you are not flushing it. I made a quick video just for this purpose…Here are the two ‘main’ problems toilets have when they get older (even some newer).
1. The float is mis-adjusted and the water is just allowed to run down the overflow piping – this is an easy fix, just adjust the float rod with the finger fastener or adjust it with a screw (most old toilets have this type).

2. The flapper that holds the water in the toilet tank has lost its flexibility and just lets the water pass by it. Another easy fix, just replace the flapper with one purchased at the hardware store. hint** Turn off the water on the toilet and flush it…then remove the flapper and take it to the hardware store with you. This step will help you insure that you will not purchase the wrong one.

- There are other issues with toilets that will waste water or cause the toilet not to function, these two are the most common…If your issue cannot be fixed by checking these two things then you probably need a new float assembly. This is easy to install and I will follow up with a video on that subject soon.

***note the secondary float on the flapper is supposed to be adjusted the other way…I noticed my blooper after the fact:). If you want more water on your flush adjust the secondary float down towards the flapper, less water – move it towards the lid of the toilet.

Thank you for reading and watching,
Luke

Share on Facebook

Duct Tape, extremely useful for many temporary fixes around the house and garage, has a special place in my toolbox. I use it for many items from patching my surfboard to pulling out splinters. Here are some hints using this great stuff…I hope it helps you out, please feel free to add your uses in the comments. Also, as most of you know, duct tape comes in all kinds of colors, use appropriate colors with the repair you are working on.

- Pulling out splinters, cactus spurs, porcupine quils, bee stingers, etc..

- Holding a picture level, by reducing slippage.

- Removing Warts, in conjunction with salitic acid.

- Replace shipping tape for heavy items that may get out of the box.

- Temporarily repair an air mattress or air toy.

- Repair a book binding and cover.

- Repair a shower curtain with the same color tape.

- Temporary vacuum system repair. Duct tape works well on vacuum, but not so well on internal pressure leaking out.

- Depth gauge on a drill bit

- Protect glass from shattering

- Protect laminate counter top from chipping while it is being cut with a saw.

Please add to this list…as you can see it is very short for a tape like duct tape.

Luke Spencer

Share on Facebook

Is your hot water heater system (hydronic) not working well or are some of your rooms cold and some hot? Some do not know that many hot water heating systems need to have the air bled off them at least once a year (usually done right before it starts getting cold). Air naturally works its way into the system through small leaks in the system and needs to be removed. Each radiator has a small bleed valve that usually can be opened with a special wrench or a flat bladed screwdriver (sometimes a special tool). When bleeding the system here is the general steps that need to be taken to get the air out of your system.
– First of all remember the water coming out of the system when it is running is generally either very hot or in steam form. Protect yourself with a pair of leather gloves and bleed the water off into a coffee cup with a handle.
- Start up the system just like you normally would during the winter, make sure the thermostat is set high enough to keep the water running for an hour.
- Bleed the air off the first radiator after the pump…this radiator generally doesn’t have much air in it, if it does expect the rest of the radiators to be worse off.
- Open the valves as little as possible, you will hear the air hissing out of the valve. Eventually you will get a little steam, then steam and water. When you get steam and water you will know that you are done, and can close the valve.
- Remember if you feel a radiator and it is cold to touch on the top, it most likely needs to have the air bled off of it (when the heater is on).

If you have more heater bleeding tips please feel free to comment.
Thank you for reading,
Luke Spencer

Share on Facebook

If your old house is like my old house then it squeaks and sticks in places not even Shurlock Homes would be able to find. It is important to use the right lube for the job. Using the wrong lube can be very irritating because it will not last and in some cases will not work for your problem. I have 50 year old hinges in the house that squeak within a week of an application of the wrong lubricant (I think they were made with a hammer and anvil). Here are some of the lubricants that I use around my house:

Lithium Grease – This is made for mechanical joints (metal on metal), it is usually used in areas that see frequent use because it is very thick (this helps it stay in place for a long time). I use this on door hinges, Squeaky Oven Hinges, Any sort of metal rubbing on metal, etc…

Paraffin Wax – This is a great lubricant for wood on wood or metal on wood applications. I use this on wooden furniture, kitchen cabinets, dinner tables.

Paste Wax – This is for buffing and cleaning metal tables. I use this on my table saw to help the wood to slide easier.

WD-40 – This is my magic spray. I use this for all kinds of things, cleans, lubricates, penetrates, protects, etc. I use this to clean tar from my hands, remove rust with a wire brush, loosen screws, quick lubes. *3 in 1 oil is a sort of little brother to wd-40, I use it in about the same way…if I have a door hinge that is squeaking and needs to be fixed in a hurry this is what I use (grease takes time because you have to remove the hinge pin).

Spray Silicon – This spray can be used on plastic, metal, & wood. I use this lubricant when I want to lubricate something that has a tendency to get dusty, or when I have something plastic needs to be lubricated.

Share on Facebook

Just give that drawer a good yank, the thought is very harmless until all of your cooking utensils are on your foot. If you have an older house it is very likely that you have some sticking drawers. There are many types of drawers therefore many different ways to fix them. Fixing your drawers is a simple and usually quick project that will save you hours of cleaning up or worse yet emergency room time.

Object blocking your drawer or jambing your track

First, thing to do when you are fixing your drawers is to make sure that your they are not sticking because of some sort of trash getting inside the track or blocking its proper operation. This situation happens most of the time to my drawers…I put a utensil or other cooking item in the drawer that is too big and jambs proper operation, or a recipe on a 3×5 card falls into the drawer track and gets the wheel messed up.

Broken Tracks, Corroded Track Wheels, Missing Wheels

Second, check to make sure that the wheels on the drawer tracks are operating correctly. Sometimes the track wheels will lose their bearings or get gunked up from many years of continuous use. If this is the case with your drawers attempt to put a little oil (3 in 1) on the wheels to see if they free up for you. If the wheels will not free up, replace the tracks (the tracks are usually found at Lowe’s or home depot in the hardware dept.) Take the old drawer tracks off and bring them with you when you go to purchase the new ones. Ask an associate to get a close match to your hardware.

Drawer is Falling Apart, Drawer is Swollen

Third, if the drawer is falling apart or swelling (from moisture) you will have to do a little more mending. If the sides are falling off the front of the drawer, or back falling off the sides, you will need to find a way to reassemble it. The best way to do this is to squirt a little glue in the damaged joint then screw it together with small trim screws (pre-drill the sides with 1/16″ to prevent splitting). If the drawer is swollen from moisture, the wood must be dried before it will operate. – Place a 60W lamp in front of the drawer for about 8 hours to dry the it out (this will need to be monitored so that you do not start anything on fire). Carefully open the drawer (because it is hot), and let the drawer stand out for about 30 min. – sand with a orbital sander then wax.

Old Stuck Drawers, Wood On Wood Drawer Slides

If you drawers are sticking and you do not have tracks or wheels then you probably have wood sticking on wood. These drawers are in many old houses that were up fitted with custom kitchen cabinets. The best way to fix these old drawers is to pull one out and examine the colors on the sides and bottom, if you see any black streaks it usually means that the wood is rubbing in that area. Sand down the dark area with 100 grit sandpaper, then with 120 or lighter to smooth the surface. Clean all the sawdust off the affected area and rub some gulf (paraffin) wax all over the affected area. Put the drawer back in place, and check for operation. If it works good you are finished, if not go through the steps again. ** Occasionally the drawer will rub over the whole side surface, If this is the case then sand the whole area with an orbital sander, then clean and wax.

Hope this information helps you out

Luke Spencer

Share on Facebook

We lived in our house about three months before I noticed an alarming amount of spiders…Not the harmless furry little guys you don’t mind in your house but a new spider from Australia called the Brown Widow (new to us in Hanahan, SC – there are many links with more information I used Wiki because of the good pictures and links). These spiders are supposedly more poisonous than the black widow but they are much less aggressive. Of course just the fact they where around my house made me weary of spider bites on my family members. My first attempts to get rid of them were quite futile, I removed some and more appeared. It seamed when I would smash one, three days later I would have five in the same place. I researched bug sprays made just for spiders and discovered that there were not may of them. Spiders do not clean themselves the way that other insects do…With most bug sprays you must hit the spiders directly in order to get rid of them.

First thing I did was found a spider spray that lasts longer than just the original spray. I chose a spray called Bengal spider spray, you can pick it up from Wal-mart. This spray works surprisingly well, I sprayed it in all the areas I saw spiders, and where I thought they could go if they were to hide. I used this in combination with a good yard spray. The first year I used Spectracide yard spray (works well, this is what I use now), and have also used Raid Max (also works well). This kills the spiders food such as mosquitoes, gnats, roaches, flies, etc.
- If you have a particularly messy or cluttered yard you are asking for spiders, clean up, this will help more than the spray.
- In addition to spraying and cleaning up clutter it is also a good idea to pressure wash with a light bleach agent if you have a particularly bad infestation.
- Brown Widows are very good a reproducing themselves, their egg pouches can hold as many as 80 more spiders, and they can have 20 sacks in their lifetime. Make sure to smash the pouches if you see them (use a dowel stick), they are very noticeable looking like little balls covered with spikes.

Share on Facebook

This is attempt number two to produce a helpful video…:) Do you have any cabinet doors that are crooked or misaligned. I made this little video to assist you with this problem. Cabinet Hinges are easy to adjust, but rather difficult to describe in words and drawings (compared with video). If you like this video please feel free to re-tweet or distribute with the page URL attached.

Thank you for reading and watching!

Share on Facebook

First of all, what is shellac? Shellac is not a coating you will see very often in modern houses (maybe on the antiques in the modern houses). Shellac is a resin secretion from a lac bug mixed with alcohol to protect and color wood furniture and trim. This was a popular coating, used up until plastics/vinyl where beginning to be used in coatings for wood (polyurethanes etc.)

lac beetle from http://www.pherotech.com/page223.htm

What do I do with damaged shellac?…First thing you are going to want to look at is the value of the piece of furniture/wood trim before it is finished (some antiques are worth more without being fixed). Secondly, you are going to want to find a color that matches the damaged shellac that you are wanting to fix. Shellac comes in just a few colors, most popular were orange, amber and white (mostly clear).
1. Mix your chosen color of shellac with a denatured alcohol (1 to 1 usually, thicker use more shellac, thinner use more alcohol) – use a varnish paint brush to apply the shellac mix.
2. Sand The affected area to remove rough edges and smooth area to be repaired. Use a medium to fine sandpaper.
3. Use tack cloth to remove all unwanted sawdust and debris from area getting new shellac.
4. Brush on a thin coat of shellac, making sure to always keep a wet edge while you are applying. – Keeping a wet edge means keeping the area you are adding to wet with new shellac so that the finish is uniform (overlapping your strokes instead of jumping around).
5. Allow to dry to the touch. – While the coat is drying, keep your brush bristles in a small pan of denatured alcohol.
6. Sand very lightly with a very fine sandpaper then follow steps 3-5 again until you have reached your desired finish.

notes about shellac:
- shellac comes in different pound cuts, all this means is how many pounds were added to a ratio of alcohol -> 5 pound cut is thicker than 4 pound cut.
- shellac color should be tested on a piece of sample wood before being used.
- shellac finishes usually end up with 4-6 coats so be patient when coating. If you do not get the gloss that you desire use some paste wax to shine it up (flooring wax, paste wax are usually near the shellac in the home improvement store).

If you have any shellac tricks please add them in the comments section…
thank you for reading,
Luke

Share on Facebook

Do you have a home question that needs to be answered, and you can’t find a blog or website to answer your question. Many people use Yahoo! Answers, It is a site where you can get your questions answered in a hurry any time of the day. I of course would try to give a fast answer if you where to email, but I have to sleep, work and all that stuff (I like answering emails so I would love it if you sent me an email also). This website has been around for quite a while so it is filled with pro’s of all kinds (loonies visit sometimes so make sure to filter your information:)

If you are a blogger looking for some traffic, and you can answer someone’s question, this is a great site for you. I have mostly a information based blog – - home improvement by majority. This works good for the home and garden section. You may have a cell phone or computer blog that can match up with those categories.

One more good source for home improvement/repairs information is Houseblogs.net. I participate in this community and find that it is a good source for all things related to your home. — This is also a good blog community for those who write home improvement blogs.

Share on Facebook