Do you have a toilet that is constantly cycling (filling with water), but you are not flushing it. I made a quick video just for this purpose…Here are the two ‘main’ problems toilets have when they get older (even some newer).
1. The float is mis-adjusted and the water is just allowed to run down the overflow piping – this is an easy fix, just adjust the float rod with the finger fastener or adjust it with a screw (most old toilets have this type).

2. The flapper that holds the water in the toilet tank has lost its flexibility and just lets the water pass by it. Another easy fix, just replace the flapper with one purchased at the hardware store. hint** Turn off the water on the toilet and flush it…then remove the flapper and take it to the hardware store with you. This step will help you insure that you will not purchase the wrong one.

- There are other issues with toilets that will waste water or cause the toilet not to function, these two are the most common…If your issue cannot be fixed by checking these two things then you probably need a new float assembly. This is easy to install and I will follow up with a video on that subject soon.

***note the secondary float on the flapper is supposed to be adjusted the other way…I noticed my blooper after the fact:). If you want more water on your flush adjust the secondary float down towards the flapper, less water – move it towards the lid of the toilet.

Thank you for reading and watching,
Luke

Share on Facebook

Ever been out shopping for a item for your bathroom and thought “Holey moley that’s expensive!” This was our problem when we were building our master bath on the house. We were able to find all kinds of things at the Habitat for Humanity Restore, but bathroom vanities where not one of those things we could find for cheap. I found a Jacuzzi tub for $50 and decided to build a bead board surround, and ended up purchasing too much bead board and framing materials. This oops ended up working out quite nicely because the vanities I was looking to install in the bathroom where around $900 a pop (this was the cheap one).

Purchasing the vanity at this point would have limited other projects I was trying to finish around the house so I decided that I would wing it and make one from scratch. I decided on a look that I liked, something to match the jacuzzi surround, and found some hardware that was similar to the hardware on the vanities that were in the store. In addition to the hardware, I decided to spice it up a notch with some fluted trim and rosettes (got the idea from another vanity).
– The drawer slides can be purchased at a building superstore in your area…the easiest way to find them if you do not know what they are is to ask a hardware specialist to show you the drawer slides they carry that are similar to the ones in the cabinets sold in the store (the best to install are the ones that mount on the bottom of the drawer).
– The strongest and easiest way to assemble the face of the cabinet is to use a pocket screw jig from the hardware store. I use a small two screw unit that works well and is efficient for just about any job like it around your house. -> Kreg R3 Jr. Pocket Hole Jig System This is a jig like the one I use, I purchased one a Lowe’s but If you cannot find one there please feel free to use this Amazon link.
– For the cabinet doors I used European hinges because they are very easy to adjust once they are installed. There is a bit usually in the area of these hinges that is made for their installation, it is called a forstner bit and is usually 35mm (1 3/8″). This hardware along with the knobs where purchased at the habitat store for $5.

In all I saved around $800 dollars on just the vanity….this is not to mention the Corean double bowl sink that we purchased for very little money, and the large mirror over the sink that was also purchased at a good price.

I would like to include plans for this vanity, but like many things I have done around the house it was kind of an improv. project. If you would like to build something like this in your house I would recommend getting a good book on carpentry (there are many). Here is one good book on building cabinets -> Illustrated Cabinetmaking: How to Design and Construct Furniture That Works
its very good, many pictures and diagrams so you can tell what you are doing.

Hope this information helps, thank you for reading.
Luke Spencer

Share on Facebook

Just an easy fix for today’s post. I had someone ask me the other day how I would go about tightening a loose toilet seat and thought why not put it on the web…If you toilet seat is loose here is what you do. First you need to identify your toilet seat hinges on the back side of the seat. If the hinges have decorative covers open them up with a small flat head screwdriver.
Next, use a screwdriver to tighten the plastic bolt (you will have to hold the nut on the bottom with your hand or a pair of pliers). Repeat the steps on the other hinge and wallah!, you have a tight toilet seat.

Share on Facebook

One of the least fun tasks when you own a home is getting the toilet unclogged after untimely log jam or other ill happening in the house throne. Usually when this sort of thing happens we immediately run to the utility closet to get the plunger. This is the most used of the plumbing tools in our house, although not always the most effective means to remove a clog.

When you first notice that your toilet is not flushing, do not continue to flush it after it is full of water – this will only make your floor wet and you angry. Put the plunger in the toilet slowly, if there is too much water in the toilet to put the plunger in without making a mess put down towels around the toilet. Plunge the toilet firmly two to three times to and stop to see if anything happens. If this does nothing continue these steps several times until the clog is gone…

Step 2 – If the plunger does not work, get a toilet snake from the hardware store to remove the clog. To use this pull out about 5 ft and work it into the toilet (this may get nasty so get some rags ready). Work the snake back and forth while using a slow but steady twisting motion. When you hit the p-trap in the toilet it will be like you hit a wall, just firmly push it through (if possible). When you have gone all the way through the toilet the water will drain and the snake will go back and forth fairly easily.

Step 3 – If you get here the snake did not work with the toilet attached to the floor, so now we remove the toilet. Follow this link to assist in removing your toilet. When you have the toilet out, check to see if you clog continues past the toilet, or in other word is the drain hole under the toilet full of water or is it empty. If it is empty, then you probably have something wedged in your toilet, with all kinds of nastiness blocking the water flow. (you can tell I was never a full time plumber:) Clean out the toilet with the snake by running it in through the bottom, and then through the top until the clog is cleared. If the clog is past the toilet…the best thing to do is call a plumber. If you are feeling adventurous, find the clean-out for your house and see if you can snake it out (not recommended but it may work).

If you would like to add anything please feel free.
Luke

Share on Facebook

Cleaning tile grout can be an especially irritating job when sealer has not been applied. Grout is a substance that is naturally porous, so when you spill something on it, or if something decides to grow on it, the grout naturally takes some of the color from the spill or growth. Bleach will work sometimes, but does not always work when something like grape juice has had time to saturate it. In cases of severe staining, the grout has to be removed and reapplied.
Grout sealer seals up the pores in the grout therefore blocking the stain from getting past the surface of the grout. If grout where like a screen door, the grout sealer is like a sheet of plastic covering the screen blocking the passing wind. I have a friend from work that suggested a particularly genius idea about a grout sealer applicator. He uses an empty twist top mustard bottle. When you use a mustard bottle you can control the flow with the twist top, and the sealer gets right where you want it to go without the use of a small paint brush. If you do use this method, be sure to keep a rag handy to clean up stray squirts.
***Be sure to use at least 2 coats of sealer. It is easy to miss spots if you only coat it one time, two coats will reduce the likelihood that you missed something.

If you have anything extra, please comment
Luke

Share on Facebook

Hey everyone!…most of you have seen this one on my site before (it was actually a paper I wrote for Tech Writing in school). I am scrapping the bath page and just posting this with everything else. It seems to be easier to find that way. Installing a toilet is one of the fundamental task for old house work. If you have an old house it is likely you will be taking one out and putting it back at some point while you own the house (that is if you are currently rehabilitating it).

Thank You for reading and enjoy,

Luke

REPLACING AN OLD TOILET

INTRODUCTION

This set of instructions will guide the user to replace an old toilet. These instructions are intended for the intermediate home renovator. In order to complete this job the user will need specific tools and materials.

TOOLS AND MATERIALS

Rubber gloves

Paint stir stick

Small hack saw

New wax ring with toilet bolts, nuts and washers

Toilet water supply line

Toilet bowl and tank kit (pre-assembled)

Flat head screwdriver

Adjustable wrench

Silicone calk to match bathroom colors

Stainless washers (used as a shim, other materials can be used)

Toilet bolt covers to match toilet color

Medium Styrofoam cup

One old towel

REMOVING THE OLD TOILET

1. Turn off water supply. (located under the toilet tank usually on the right side, fig. 1)
2. Flush the toilet to remove the excess water from the toilet tank.
3. Disconnect the water line from the water supply valve with the adjustable wrench.
   1. NOTE: Place Styrofoam cup under water line while disconnecting to catch excess water left in the toilet tank.
4. Use the Styrofoam cup to remove the excess water from the toilet bowl.
5. Find and remove the plastic bolt caps on the original toilet with the flathead screwdriver. (They are located on the left and right sides of the toilet, and they cover the bolts that hold the toilet to the floor.) (Fig. 1)
6. Remove the toilet bolts with the adjustable wrench.
7. SLOWLY pick up the old toilet, being careful not to spill the water left in the toilet water trap.
   1. NOTE: The installer is advised to use caution lifting the toilet because of the awkward position of the toilet and the weight of the toilet. This combination could cause back injuries. Remember to always bend at the knees, and not the back.
8. Place the toilet on the old towel.
   1. TIP: Place the towel on surface resistant to water if possible. (Tile, vinyl, etc.)
9. Remove the remaining wax ring from the floor drain using the paint stir stick.

1. NOTE: Use rubber gloves during this step, because the wax ring is usually unsanitary. The wax ring provides a seal between the toilet and the drain.

10. Clean up any remaining residue left on the floor by the toilet, and remove all obstacles impeding entry of new toilet including the bolts still in the toilet flange.

1. NOTE: The toilet flange is a ring attached to the drain on the floor; its purpose is to enable the toilet to be attached to the floor (drain) with bolts (Fig. 2).

INSTALLING THE NEW TOILET

11. Locate the bolt slots on either side of the toilet flange. The slots are usually about two inches in length, and have a large opening (for the bolt head to enter) followed by a narrow slot only wide enough for the bolt body.

12. Insert the bolts into the slots head first. Once in place, slide the bolts along the narrow part of the slot until the bolts make a line that would be parallel to the wall behind the toilet. The bolts should be facing up and in the same general location as the bolts that were holding the old toilet to the floor.

1. NOTE: Occasionally the bolts come with a plastic grommet. Place the grommet on the bolt when the bolts are in proper position. This holds the bolts is place and in an upright position, making it easier to install the toilet without help.

13. Turn the new toilet on its side and locate the drain hole on the bottom of the toilet.

1. CAUTION: Remove the tank lid before laying the toilet on its side. The lid is fragile and will break if dropped. Replace the lid on the tank when the toilet is completely installed.

14. Place the new wax ring around the drain hole on the toilet. Work the wax ring in a circular motion until it is firmly attached.

1. NOTE: The bottom of the wax ring has a plastic flange protruding from it. The top side will look like a large caramel covered doughnut (Fig. 3). Place the top side on the toilet drain.

15. Pick up the toilet and carefully place the toilet on the toilet flange. The bolts need to be aligned with the holes on the toilet. Do not put much pressure on the toilet until the bolts are visible through the toilet bolt holes. The bolts will protrude slightly from the toilet base.

1. TIP: If the toilet is gently placed on the flange, the bolts can usually be adjusted from the side with a screwdriver. If the bolts came with grommets there probably will not be an alignment problem. On the occasion that the screwdriver will not work, it is advised that the installer get help from someone able to align the screws while the toilet is held.
2. If the installer is still unable to get the bolts through the toilet, stop. Put the toilet back on its side, and make certain the bolts are in the right location (the bolts should appear to be in the same location at the holes in the toilet if it were on the floor installed).

16. Put weight on the toilet. The toilet will sink slowly to the floor as the wax ring flattens.

17. Make sure the toilet is level by sitting on it and rocking. The toilet should not rock in any direction.

1. NOTE: If the toilet rocks, use the stainless steel washers to shim the toilet until it remains still. Place a small calk bead around the toilet to disguise the shims and space made by the shims.

18. Bolt toilet to the floor using nuts and washers included.

1. NOTE: Open the package with the plastic caps and take out the plastic washer. Put the plastic washer on the bolt first, then the metal washer (included with the bolts), then the nut. Tighten down the assembly with the adjustable wrench.

19. Cut the excess bolt with the small hack saw, making sure not to hit the toilet.

1. NOTE: Cut the bolt as close to the nut as possible.

20. Snap Caps onto bolt on either side of toilet.

21. Install the new water line on the toilet. Use the wrench to tighten the end connecting to the water supply valve, and hand tighten the end connecting to the toilet.

22. Turn on the water supply and check for leaks.

1. NOTE: If the supply line leaks, turn off the water and tighten the line a quarter of a turn.

23. Cycle the toilet through three or four flushes to check for toilet leaks.

*This figure was found on Toto’s web site.

+This figure was found on Lowe’s Home Improvement website.

Share on Facebook

I had someone ask me to post something about the pink stain on their tile grout the other day. I have done a little internet research on the mysterious pink stain and found that it is a bacteria that likes wet areas (like your shower). The name of this bacteria is Serratia marcescens, it is a pink slimy bacteria that likes wet tile grout. Removing it can be done with a bleach based cleaner, according to Wiki. The person requesting this information told me that the bleach based cleaner did not work on his particular stain. If you run into this problem, I would recommend that you try Hydrogen Peroxide with a tooth brush. Yet another thing to try would be making a paste with some oxyclean oxygen cleaner and using it with a tooth brush…
***Just as an experiment I would like to try to mix some of the mildewcide made for bathroom paint into the grout while mixing it for application to the tile. I think if it works on paint maybe it would work on grout.
As always it is good to seal your grout with 2 coats of sealer when you are finished with the tile job. This helps protect your tile from stains and makes it easier to clean when you need to remove mold, mildew, bacteria, and dirt.

Share on Facebook

Ever reached break time with no good light to read your book? When I designed this bathroom I did not envision that it would need as much light as it does. I put the toilet in and thought a hanging light would make this area seem a little warmer…hopefully the light would make it feel like you were not sitting in a closet. I found this light at the Habitat ReStore for $5, which was a bargain because it is made of stainless steel (it will not corrode). It was fairly easy to install. I used a pancake box mounted directly to a 2×6 joist. I connected the wire in series to the vanity light (black to black, white to white, ground to ground), so when the vanity light is turned on the bathroom light comes on. I also used a low wattage light to reduce the strain the light may cause on the circuit… ***As a little design tip, check out your local building restore for things you can add to your house. This is a way to show personality and originality in your house. As an example: It is common to find old chest of drawers and make up cabinets in these stores. You can make an original sink vanity with a little ingenuity and plumbing parts. Be creative and make your house your own.
Here is a picture of a Lowe’s version of a side table vanity that is supposed to look like old furniture (your original will be better).

Share on Facebook

Do you have a bathroom sink without a plug?  This can be a pain if you would like to fill your sink with water or if you tend to drop things in the sink.  There is a specific part made for this problem in the bathroom.  Its called a pop-up assembly.  You can purchase one of these at your local hardware store or on the internet.  They usually have easy to follow directions included….make sure to follow the directions for the type of sink you have.  Stainless steel sinks take a plumbers putty seal, whereas a cultured marble will usually take the rubber seal included with the pop-up assembly.  Also remember to test your work, plumbing can be frustrating, just remember patience will serve you well with these sort of tasks.  Here is a picture of a pop-up assembly:

Share on Facebook